Synthetic vs Conventional Oil – There's A Good Reason To Switch
Synthetic vs Conventional Motor Oil – Why Is Synthetic Better For Your Car?
Sponsored by Mobil 1 motor oil. Learn more about Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil: https://bit.ly/mobil1-synthetic-vs-conventional
What’s the difference between synthetic and conventional motor oil? There are many advantages of synthetic motor oils, and in this video we’ll be focusing on four key areas. First, we’ll talk about viscosity index, and why synthetics tend to have less change in viscosity with temperature change. Second, we’ll examine volatility, and how synthetic’s more uniform molecular structure helps prevent burning off oil in your engine. Third, we’ll look at how a motor oil made with synthetic base oils impacts the use of viscosity modifiers, which can cause deposit formation within your engine. Finally, we’ll discuss oxidation, which ultimately is a cause of sludge and leading factor necessitating oil changes, as oxygen reacts with motor oil and causes it to thicken with time. I spent time discussing all of these topics and more with Mobil 1 engineers. Watch for all the details! #Mobil1Partner
Related Videos:
Base Oil Groups I-V Defined: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IqLRhxdoGg&t=58s
Will Thin Oils Damage Your Engine? https://youtu.be/IKdhgKUZhPA
Is Synthetic Oil Bad For Old Cars? https://youtu.be/pPFSR-2lhxY
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Where does Toyotas new oil fit in your spectrum. I believe ots ow16?
Heres the fastest way for me to tell you the difference, synthetic lasts 5k miles, (regular oil change intervals, some run 10k miles, and I don’t recommend higher mileage) and conventional lasts 3k miles, this entails that you get 2k miles more out of that oil and it costs around $5/10 more, and you basically get double the mileage when considering the cost of the oil change itself, you are saving money just by running that synthetic oil
Thank you for this video. I enjoy learning specific information on subjects of science and engineering 😊
AMSOIL FTW!
One of the few times where synthetic is a good thing.
Great explanation! This is precisely why since the 90s I have run fully synthetic oil in every vehicle and boat I’ve owned. Such a superior product.
I really appreciate the information. Jason what’s your take on Tribotex can it be used as they say in both conventional and synthetic oils, and does it really help the engine run better?
Viscosity index modifiers are not lubricants. They are a major cause of sludge and gunk that forms in an engine. Notwithstanding, it also makes up ~25% of the oil in a multi viscosityquart. A mono grade 30 weight high detergent oil is the best thing that you can use, conventional. It will not ruin the seals in your engine and unless it’s 32°F or below, you got nothing to worry about. Change your oil every 5000 miles with hi detergent conventional motor oil. When you use a mono grade oil during the summer 100% of the contents of the quart of oil is lubricant. Manufacturers of motor oil don’t communicate this because they want to sell the narrative of a multigrade oil. Multigrade oils are absolutely a must if you’re going to have temperatures below 32°F. However, if you don’t change your oil often, you will form gunk and sludge in your motor and ruin your engine.
Maybe next time you can explain the difference in English.
I have a better understanding between the two thank you
You should really look into Valvoline Restore. It works by cleaning carbon deposits on the cylinder and overall engine. 👍
The bulk of lubes in the USA claiming to be synthetic are not made from PAO. They are made from Group III base oil and this is legal.
If he didn’t wave his arms so much I would watch his videos but all you see is his hands flying all over the screen.
If the vehicle originally speced conventional oil, stick with conventional oil. If speced synthetic, use synthetic. But no matter what you use, change it often. Polymers break down fairly rapidly, and dirt in the oil, no matter what kind, is the enemy. And most synthetic oil sold in the US is simply upgraded conventional oil, not a true ester based synthetic.
How is the quality of the Shell advanced ultra fully synthetic oil for bikes and cars…Can anybody explain a little bit…Love from lndia…
I live in a very hot zone where there’s no winter / snow… at all….
It’s always sunny as hell and my engine is also hot all the time. In this case what viscosity is the best?
What would you recommend in my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis with 78,000 miles? It doesn’t leak or anything. I just got it. Runs great. Super quiet. Getting ready to do oil change. Have no idea what was in it prior.. I’m debating on syn blend or full synthetic, Valvoline max life blend or full synthetic? Idk
I’ve been a mechanic for about 46 years and regularly learn things I didn’t know from this channel. Yup, that is a long time to pull wrenches 🔧.
Why shouldn’t I use the oil the owners manual of my vehicle says to use?
How are the synthetic oils in flat tappet cam engines? Is it better or worse than conventional oil. Still need a zinc additive?
Burned gas makes sludge. Conventional oil has polar molecules. Polar molecules can absorb sludge. Most syntetic oils can’t.
The base of oil for me is the most important part, so that is why i only use on my vehicles (bike and car) Redline Syntethic Group IV PAO Base oils with Ester. They are the best on the market.
You are not wrong but still the number one thing is clean oil, ill take clean Dino oil changed regularly over dirty syn that some car manufacturers tell people to run for 6,7, 10 k .
Wow this is over the top thorough INFO! I’ll have to come back a few times to digest it. Just wondering , what’s better for old cars semi-synthetic or high Zinc conventional oil or the high mileage oil with other additives : 1965 ford 390😁
Should astro ky make engine oil? If they did would it be a Mobil 1 repackaging?
I started using synthetics since Mobil one started selling it in the 70s. Amsoil I was leary of since they started as a ponzi scheme.
I’m sorry.
Isn’t 10 weight 10 weight?
How did we ever survive b4. ?
Engine oil changes less than 5K miles: conventional oil performance is as good as synthetic. No measurable engine wear difference.
Show me evidence to the contrary. No one can.
Synthetic oil is great for non combustion applications.
I’ve been using mobile one synthetic oil and all my Toyotas since 1977
A co-worker of mine who knows everything about LS engines told me he doesn’t use synthetic because it’s oil for "lazy people." His reasoning was based on his belief that extended drain intervals are synthetic’s only advantage.
I got a 2012 Corolla S recently at 27k miles. It’s now 30k and I just did the oil change, Mobil 1 0w-20 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy with K&A Oil filter. Car is going to last me half a million miles or more, changing it every 3k miles. None of that 15-20k mile oil changes, that’s for lazy people.
What about semi synthetic oils??!
I have been around for quite a while. You have confirmed so many of my thoughts. Thanks a million! A few extra $ well spent and I still change my own oil. Make ing cost basically same price or less as Oil change shop and I control what goes in my vehicles. No guessing games .One car one Rv . Have used synthetic since it hit the market. Also use K@N filters since forever. Any thoughts on K&N or did I miss a presentation? Thanks again.
when is it time to switch to synthetic fuels?
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Alright, explain this.
New motorcycle. New !!!!
Don’t forget it’s new.
Yes, I said new.
Motorcycle is 100% stock.
No mods.
From day one, it runs great on 87 octane.
600 miles, first service, oil & filter change. Still running great.
1806 miles, running great and goes in for second service, oil & filter change.
pick up bike, now ENGINE KNOCKING first two minutes, then smooths out.
Every time the engine starts it knock for two minutes.
But not completely, yet hard to notice.
NO ECU updates.
So new bike, no internal adjustments, no modifications, just oil changes.
This is on 80% or high of all this type of engine.
The only difference between new and the services are the oil changes. All these motorcycles with this engine all over the world have this issue.
The common denominator is the oil change.
Is it possible that the oil at the factory is conventional oil and it doesn’t cause the knocking ?
IF this is true then conventional oil lubricants better than a semi or full synthetic in this particular application?
Can anyone help here ?
I’ve used conventional oil for years! I always change it 1500 to 3000 miles I’ve never had a problem
Can we talk about semi synthetic oil which is recommended for my diesel 6 cylinder Toyota Land Cruiser
Outstanding video on Synthetic Oil…
There is an inherent problem when switching form a conventional oil to a synthetic oil. I as well as other people I know had our vehicles start using oil in between oil changes after making the switch. If you are going to make the switch go with a slightly heavier oil. Example: if you use 5w30 switch to 10w40. That will slow down consumption…it did for me.
Motor oil types and weights are a bit like arguing which toothpaste is best. There are differences, but those things matter far less than just DOING IT REGULARLY.
Additives don’t bond as well in the synthetic oil. That is the real reason for blended oil.
So if synthetic is better, why conventional still exist and proper application?
Are there additives to mitigate fuel contamination from fuel rich cold starts? Plus acidity from leak down water vapour into oil? acidic carbonic acid?
A small engine I have in a power washer calls for straight 30 weight. Is there a company that makes a straight 30 weight synthetic? All I can find are conventional.
Does anybody else hear this dude like the peanuts adults.
It is just the same to use mineral or syntehtic oil if the oil is changed often enough. They are just as good lubricants. Especially SL or "older" oils. SL is "life", SM or later are "murder", a rule of thumb. Some "old" oils are actually better as lubricants. But, some modern engines are more picky for oils, even to the point where the oils are car maker specific. That just tells that those engines are borderline reliable.
I have several cars and trucks. My -79 Blazer has original engine with million+ kilometers on it. It runs like new, just passed MOT test like it was actually new. But it has had oil changes at about 5000 kms max, usually 3000 kms or less, mostly mineral oils, sometimes synthetic for hard winters here in Finland.
While the syhthetic myth has been created by oil manufacturers, the real benefit is with turbo engines. While turbo engines are more efficient, they are also more unreliable. Using syn oil keeps that cursed thing alive longer as it does not burn to crisp but to sticky goo. Just like every motorcyclist knows if oil gets to the surface of exhaust pipe.
The uniform molecyle size is indifferent thing. It does not matter, it just comes with the manufacturing process.
And, most synthetic oils are for light duty use only. I once, long time ago, thought that 5W-50 Mobil One is the same as straight 30W oil for my boat engine , 5.8 V8. I cruised to Kotka from Helsinki, and at Kotka end listened to the engine , it sounded BAD. The oil had just failed. I fortunately was able to get 30W oil from a local fisherman, and after changing the oil the engine was silent again. Later i told about my mistake to the OMC mech, he gringed and asked if I had blown the engine… Now, using mineral 20W-50 the engine is happy.
Mineral oil is cheap. There is no need to use syn oil with older engines. Just change the oil "too often". New engines are designed to be disposable, and meant to last about 5 years, so use the recommended oil to get them last even that. But change at half the kms that the manual says.
Sooooo can we crudely say that oxygen mutates oil into sludge? Or is that the wrong thinking
This guy.