"FREE" Up Horsepower with an Aluminum Driveshaft – Dyno Tested!
If you understand basic physics, then you know that reducing weight from a vehicle’s driveline will help with acceleration and “free” up some horsepower. We use the term “free” up since the power is already there, you’re just helping the engine not work as hard by replacing the heavier component with one that is lighter. The most common driveline upgrade on rear wheel drive Mustangs is a driveshaft. Aftermarket aluminum or carbon fiber driveshafts help reduce rotational mass, thus increasing acceleration and “freeing” up horsepower.
Shop Mustang Driveshafts: https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Aluminum-Drive-Shafts-And-Components
Previous Dyno Run: https://youtu.be/35B4jIM1x1g
*Chapters*
00:00 – Video Explanation & Introduction
00:42 – Driveshaft Unboxing
01:28 – Driveshaft Removal
03:12 – Driveshaft Weight
04:11 – Aluminum Driveshaft Install
06:13 – Dyno Run
06:36 – Dyno Results
08:09 – Outro
#lmr #mustang #dyno
Use of this video is subject to the terms as set forth in our LMR Install Video Disclaimer | https://lmr.com/page/lmr-install-video-disclaimer
Clear coat is also a FANTASTIC uv barrier, and will protect parts from cracking and fading from the sun too 😀 I clear coat damn near everything anymore. Even my archery targets 😂
I really think most of the gains are from going once piece over two pieces definitely what the set of pants are feeling
I feel like it can make like .7more HP. But I feel that that HP is coming from reduced vibrations and heat. Which means you’re reducing destructive loads on your system.
I’m doing weight reduction on a 260z thats stock. I’m looking for multi functional parts forst before i spend $2650 on carbon fiber to save 125 lbs (without doing doors or it’d be like 240lbs total) which is 5% of total weight cut. It’s a good amount but if i do things like lighter wheels, lighter tires with performance (i have all seasons currently), aluminum driveshaft, possible rear diff upgrade, exhaust system probably last, then I’d probably save around 400 pounds or 16% in total weight reduction.
Then i would start with performance parts like brake kits, cams, etc. I’m doing webber carbs right now. I wonder what other parts like the driveshaft i can cut weight and improve performance at the same time
it’s not free. It’s 500 USD expensive upgrade.
Folks driveshafts DO NOT give you power. None, zip.. it just feels like it. I’ve done and seen over 600 shaft upgrades on stock V8 muscle on tbe dyno. Any, ANY shop that tells you it makes power is FULL OF BS.
If it’s accumulative per mods then cool but price point for 3 more to wheels… meh but I still plan to buy one next year.
Bro science backed up. It was really a great deal when the Ford Racing shafts were $150 and under. An aluminum DS and Flywheel with 430 gears on my Mach 1 took it to low 12s when that was quick🤣
I believe it’s not just reducing weight, but no one else has expressed the fact that maybe the carrier bearing robs just a bit of the horsepower from the drivetrain as well. Every time you add another friction surface, there has to be parasitic loss.
Do you want to put anti-seize on the differential and clutch/transmission ends?
Next up…
Carbon wheels.
Not so much with these bolt together Lego cars, but with custom stuff the biggest benefit is lack of harmonics and vibration.
The aluminum is such a “dead” material it doesn’t amplify ring and vibration…
Don’t ever put a one piece on a 6r80 transmission because you’ll have vibrations issues. The factory unit is a two piece with a carrier bearing due to the design requiring it. There is excessive tail shaft play by design w that trans and needs a carrier bearing to stabilize it.
I have one on my 2008 Bullitt and I could tell IMMEDIATELY !!!!
The results were negligible, but what’s important is what you can’t see. The added weight of the old drive shift slows initial acceleration (hence the statement what you feel) and more importantly the wear and tear you save on your drive line due to the initial power transformer under take off. Think of spinning a crank with your arm with a heavy crank versus light. Once up to speed no problem, but that initial start is where you get the payoffs.
Aluminum drive shaft ain’t much weight difference round 1500 ibs difference not much
I’m sure the difference would be greater with a boosted car
Is it really worth the $$ though?🤔
Did landan quote ronnie Coleman there? I heard it lol
in my phev i deleted the agm battery and built a 7lb 35$ 32ah lifepo4 battery. saved almost 40lbs. big brain mods people with pure gas cars with alternators cant imagine. this was 2 years ago, 2013 chevy volt. bunch of people online think this cant be done. theyre retarded
Is the suspension all stock? Did you need to adjust the pinion angle? Also the yellow dot on the driveshaft, is that to be aligned with the yellow dot I’ve seen on several pinion flanges? Are the yellow dots for balance considerations? Thanks. I’ve got a similar 2014 GT and at 26000 miles I think the carrier bearing rubber isolator is going out and causing the driveshaft to vibrate some. So I may be looking at the same driveshaft install.
Good video, thanks.mm
Nice if you’re big into weight reduction on your build.
Getting mine installed next week.
im about to switch my 2000 rangers driveshaft to an Aluminum one after finding a ranger with one at the junkyard. looking forward to it! At 119hp i can use every extra bit i can get
The thing about rotational mass is that the radius of the spinning object matters. A driveshaft is a fairly poor flywheel because it’s so thin. So you really aren’t saving much of anything compared to the stock steel piece. Especially when you look at the overall rotating mass– the tires and diff spin too. This makes sense as part of a lightening program. But power gains are almost entirely theoretical.
TWO QUESTIONS; would this hp gain be similar same in a V6 camaor/mustang but just a larger percentage since 3 hp out of 323 is almost 1% whereas 3Hp out of 416is about .6 %
it would be cool to see this back to back test with lightweight wheels as well
MAYBE even an under drive pulley if those are possible on modern engines?
Any weight loss is a faster car!!
A must first mod, that steel 2 piece with a sloppy center support bearing must go, yes even the gt 350 has the same drive shaft, so does the machI. Dana Spicer makes the shaft for Ford Performance, just a FYI.
Will adding this drive shaft to my v6 allow me to remove the rev limiter and speed governor just need to know what speeds are the drive shaft rated for
How come this same driveshaft says it weighs 24 pounds on other websites
I have a 05 v6 t5.. with stock 8.8 from a gt.. will this work? I also have the stock drive shafts for the v6 and gt
Releasing rather than increasing HP.
Great video fellas! I think it is a very worthy upgrade!
Thanks for the content. Always nice to see people taking the time to contribute knowledge and testing to build our pool of knowledge on Youtube University. I’ll see how my butt dyno feels NA with this upgrade soon, before going boosted on the S650. Reading the comments is hilarious. What people believe and think they know…ugh.
Is it as durable as a steel driveshaft i plan on throwing more power onto my tuned 5.3 chevy single cab and im not fully decided if i should get the steel or aluminum
reducing rotating mass is always a good thing.
Whether an aluminum driveshaft is worth the bang-per-buck is up to the individual owner… It’s a great weekend mod though. I’ve never heard of anyone regretting their Al DS.
Lol people tried to figure out how I was leaving so hard on street tires. Aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft and 4.56s for the win. Night and day 🙌🏾
Does this fit on a 6R80 car ?
Good video. Would love to see a video how much HP would free up from ATI Damper, light weight flywheel, and electric water pump in combination with the aluminum driveshaft 😎👍🐎💨💨💨💨
0 to 60 would be the test
More like quicker acceleration than more horsepower
Carbon fiber driveshaft test with the same white 2014 mustang, it will rev even faster and gain maybe another 4 hp every bit help.👍💪😎🇨🇦👏
Would you recommend an adjustable upper control arm with this driveshaft on a stock height 2013 GT 6R80?
17 lbs is also worth almost 2 HP just from the weight loss, which of course won’t show up on the dyno run, so you can add that in to the total net HP gain.
I’m ready to get one for my 2012
Please test a carbon fiber drive shaft and see what that does. Good video.
LMR 💯 good stuff
So, is it worth the money for 3 hp? I’d say ‘no’ but: overall weight is reduced too, plus I need new u-joints…. So, is it on my parts list? He’ll yeah:)
Fresh ass haircut brother
Not cost effective, considering cost and installation.
I like the one piece cause its not clunky